In a city such as Paris, history and beauty are intertwined within its buildings and structures, making it a great city in which to explore. Many will be familiar with the city’s most famous and adored monuments such as the Eiffel Tower and the Notre Dame – yet Paris’ history runs deep, and there are plenty of old buildings still standing today. Often these can be found nestled unassumingly between modern Paris hotels, restaurants and boutiques; you could pass them many times and never know their stories. This is why it’s worth looking beyond the familiar, and getting to know some of the city’s lesser-known historic sights.
Church of Saint-Séverin:
There are many churches on the Left Bank, but Saint-Séverin is one of the oldest. Legend has it that Severin was a hermit who would pray at this spot regularly, so after he died a church was built here. The original church was demolished by the Vikings, and construction on the current church began in the 11th century. However, its most prominent features were not completed until the 15th century, hence its rather gothic appearance. Additionally, one of the church bells was made in 1412, making it the oldest in Paris. These very bells were made immortal in a poem by one of TS Eliot’s contemporaries, Alan Seeger: “The belfry on Saint Severin strikes eight across the smoking eaves / Come out under the lights and leaves / To the Reine Blanche on Saint Germain.”
11 and 13 Rue François-Miron:
These two gabled, half-timbered houses, which sit behind the church of Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais, paint a rather clear picture of what medieval Paris must have looked like. Their location actually lines what was once an ancient Roman road, connecting Paris to the east. While time has obviously seen some changes to the buildings, care has been taken to restore them to the way the originally looked. There are plaques on the front of both; No.11 claims the sign of the reaper, while No.13 bears the sign of the sheep. In ancient times, this would’ve marked one’s address: it would simply be a matter of asking for the “House of the Sign of the Reaper”.
51 Rue de Montmorency:
What might look like an unassuming restaurant is actually the oldest house in Paris and dates back to 1407. Yet what really makes this address fascinating is that the house once belonged to Nicholas Flamel, a manuscript-seller who would later become famous for his alchemy work in relation to the legendary Philosopher’s Stone. This was a substance reputedly able to turn everyday metals into precious silver and gold; it was also believed it could make a man immortal. While Flamel died in 1418, many believe he and his wife Pernelle succeeded in their quest for immortality; rumour has Flamel’s grave was later found empty, and that both Nicholas and Pernelle are still alive today. Either way, Flamel lives on in history, not least for his generosity of character. He spent much of his money on helping those less fortunate, rebuilding churches and funding hospices.
The Saint-Jacques Tower:
Standing tall amongst the shops and hotels of Paris’ 4th arrondissement is the Saint-Jacques Tower, the only remaining section of the 16th century Church of Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie. Decoration seen on the tower reflects the status and wealth of its many patrons, many of whom were wholesale butchers over at Les Halles market. The church was demolished following the French revolution, yet the beautiful gothic tower still remains. Modern renovations saw the ancient, and originally unstable, bell-tower reconstructed in 2009 and today it is generally admired as a rather grand stand-alone monument. Interestingly, one of the church’s other patrons was none other than Nicholas Flamel. He was reportedly buried beneath the church before its demolition… but whether he remains there depends on one’s belief in the Philosopher’s Stone.